Need To Know.
The most important thing to remember is: clean your knife handle with a warm wet cloth using a light detergent, then dry immediately (or you’ll be sorry!!!). And PLEASE do not use any strong chemical solutions when cleaning any of my knives for the love of Christ!
And people, PLEASE:
Don’t leave your knife in the sun – it doesn’t tan!
Don’t E-V-E-R put your knife in the dishwasher – baby does not like being put in the dishwasher!
Don’t leave soaking or in standing water – it ain’t Michael Phelps.
Keep your knife dry when not in use. Drying them well after each & every cleaning (sponge cleaning - pretend it's an elderly relative) is very important, especially in those hard to reach areas (again, like an elderly relative).
Don’t put anything too hot on the wooden handle – remember, it’s made up of a bunch of different layers of colour dyed plywood's – that dye (if handled incorrectly) will seep once in contact with hot (or cold) moisture … ain’t nobody got time for that!
These are kitchen knives - especially the Santokus, Stumpy's, French Chef's, etc. - they're not designed for brutal use - they're designed for basic Chef tasks. Buy one of my refurbished old beasts if you're planning on using your new CW blade for breaking down carcasses (or chopping old trainers in half).
Oiling the wood (for CW Choppy Boards):
Oiling is essential.
I’d recommend oiling every couple of weeks (or at least monthly if you’re lazy like me). Apply oil generously (just pretend you’re putting suntan lotion on an Irish person) using a small cloth.
Leave it settle for 10 minutes or so (have a coffee for yourself – you deserve it) for the oil to absorb into the wood, then with a clean cloth (so not the original oiled rag people – member berries) to buff off any excess oil. Too much excess oil left on will dry and become sticky icky yucky mucky to the touch.
You can use any type of oil really (walnut oil, beeswax, mineral oil, almond oil, coconut oil, etc.) but it just so happens we have an in-house skate specific oil we make – smells good too!
High Carbon Steel Knives.
Knives of high carbon steel should be washed and dried immediately after use to prevent rusting (them rust's fast's).
Chlorine and bleach products discolor and pit stain-free and high-carbon steel. If chlorine or bleach products come in contact with the blade, they must be thoroughly rinsed off immediately (YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED).
When cutlery is left to soak in aluminum pans or stainless steel sinks, Galvanic action, the transfer of electrons from one metal to another, may occur. Galvanic action may cause pitting (and/or discoloration) on cutlery blades - especially high carbon steel. To prevent it, keep yo knife away from aluminum or stainless steel pans ... simples.
If you won't be using your knife for a while, oil the blade after cleaning (when fully dry) with mineral or camellia oil. Just a few drops on a piece of fabric cloth will do the trick nicely. If you give a fu*k about your high carbon steel knife, and you have some time up your sleeve, please do this more often.
Most skateboards are made from multiple layers of cross laminated maple ply, with some of the layers dyed different colours, depending on the brand. I prep cut these boards up and glue them into blocks, which then get milled into handles (or other things) and because there's SOOOOO many individual layers - I coat all of my finished knife handles in a minimum of 3 coats of marine grade polyurethane. This gives the knife an almost plastic feel - but after A LOT of R&D over the years - this is the only finish type that lasts and to be honest, I like the clear shiny almost glass surface once they dry/get buffed.